Day 5 – From Mount Lavinia to Mahawilachchiya via Colombo, Ja Ela, Narammala, Kobeygane, Padeniya, and Anuradhapura (263 km) – The fifth and the final day of the motorcycle journey in Sri Lanka with Meer Ali of India.


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Meer Ali and I left the sea-breezy Mount Lavinia around eleven in the morning and had a sumptuous meal at Burger King at Dehiwala. There is nothing wrong in having some fast food or cola drinks once in a blue moon, but definitely not as a habit.

Then we rode to Galle Face Green, a beautiful seafront open space existing since the days of British Ceylon where a multitude of people from all walks of life, from children to lovers to joggers to hawkers hang out throughout the day. We took some pictures here too. This is one place I missed to have fun with any of my girlfriends. (I am not too sure if I am too late for that now.) There is nothing attractive here in Gall Face Green compared to most of the other hangout places in Sri Lanka. For me, Galle Face Green is just a highly overrated place.

The novel, “Colombo” by Carl Muller gives a good account of the Gall Face Green. I just managed to read the first chapter. This is a must-read if you are interested in knowing insider descriptions about Colombo metropolis.

Meer Ali in front of the Taj Samudra Hotel, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Meer Ali in front of the Taj Samudra Hotel, Colombo, Sri Lanka

We had some coffee at Coco Veranda  in Colombo 07. This is a hangout place of the IT geeks in Colombo. Though the snacks here are pretty expensive, you simply fall in love with the ambience of the place. The place is very clean and the staff is very attentive, too. So, it is worth paying an extra buck or two.

From Colombo, we went to suburban Ja Ela, the very name of the town says in the vernacular that there had been a canal built or used by mercenaries the Dutch and the British East India companies brought to Ceylon from Java or British Malaya. Then we took the Ja Ela– Giriulla Road via Minuwangoda. The traffic congestion is way too much on this road as it is yet to be repaired and widened. For some reason, the work progress of this road is very slow. If this is widened, the traffic towards Colombo from Kurunegala could be reduced but it is not yet to be.

Rambutan fruits on sale along Ja-Ela - Giriulla Road

Rambutan fruits on sale along Ja-Ela – Giriulla Road

From Giriulla we rode coconut palm fringed country roads up to Narammala and then took the turn to Padeniya, somewhat heart of the island’s vast coconut triangle.  On the way, we paid a visit to Jayantha Balasuriya’s. I knew that his daughter had been suffering from Thalassemia and I just wanted to see if I could be of any help for the patient.  It was a joy to see that the girl has had a recovery last year with the untiring efforts of Jayantha himself and I could not have the pleasure of being anyway helpful to Balasooriyas. I do sincerely feel gladdened about Jayantha’s child’s recovery.

From Jayantha’s village Waduressa to Narammala – Padeniya main road was through a very tough road and it was only once in this road that we had precarious moment danger almost enveloping us throughout the whole 5-day trip. Meer was riding and he almost lost balance but could regain the equilibrium and the control of the machine without unceremonially crashing down. I have to say that Benjamin from France and Meer from India were the best bike riders so far, I shared riding with so much of confidence and comfort.

Anuradhapura City at night

Anuradhapura City at night

It was around eight in the late evening when we reached Mahawilachchiya having accomplished the epic five-day bike hike.  I dropped Meer at his host family’s and went home and had what they call “a well-earned rest.” Hope I could visit India and have a reciprocal bike ride in Delhi with Meer someday soon.

About Meer, I cannot help writing this personal descriptive. If I do not, it is an injustice I do for his generosity. As I mentioned in my earlier post about Meer, he is very different from typical Indians. You might most probably agree with me that most Indians are prudent if not stingy whether they are rich or poor. But Meer is an extremely generous and carefree sort of guy. I did not have much money to spend when I embarked on the trip with him. But Meer did not let me spend a dime throughout the journey and paid for all food, lodging, snacks, etc. which I did not expect him to. Even when checking into guesthouses he ensured that we get some decent places, not the second-rate cheap spots with broken bathroom utensils and dirty linen. He always saw the brighter side of things and hardly complained about anything.

After completing his two weeks’ volunteering at Horizon Lanka, he invited the student Surendra who hosted him in Mahawilachchiya with all-costs-paid trip to New Delhi for a week-long tour. He also extended his generosity to the other student (Sanduni)  and teacher (Miss Anupama) who visited India to participate in the Sanitation and Hygiene Conclave in New Delhi, India. We can encapsulate our feelings about Meer Ali in the word grateful.

*Special thanks to Mr. Sunil Rutnayake. Mawanella, Sri Lanka for “chopping the dead wood” of my otherwise boring essay.

Day 4 – Tissamaharamaya to Yala Wildlife Park and back and to metropolitan Mount Lavinia along Sri Lanka’ coastal route A2. (310 Km) – This is my longest motorcycle ride in a day.


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On August 11, 2016, Meer Ali and I woke up early and headed to Yala National Park. We hired a safari jeep and traversed the park. Didn’t see as many wild animals as I used to see in Wilpattu National Park which is close to my village, Mahawilachchiya. A couple of wild elephants, wild boar, wild buffaloes, deer, crocodiles, big and small types of lizards, birds, etc. were seen but, to be honest, I wasn’t impressed with what Yala had to offer me. Maybe because of my first love is with Wilpattu.

Kirinda beach was beautiful and so were the makeshift huts that sold seashells, etc. We spent quite a time on the beach taking pictures. We left Kirinda around 11.30 am and again it was riding on dead straight newly repaired roads and a rider is naturally tempted to break the speed barrier despite the highway patrol present or rather hiding in ambush in hidden spots every 10 km or so.

There was this place which a lady sold kirala juice (kirala – Sonneratia caseolaris)  and I stopped the bike just out of curiosity. It was found to be a very tasty drink and I had two glassfuls while Meer was contented with one. It was cheap and organic too. I do not know why we don’t promote coconuts, wood apple, kirala, orange, etc. juices instead of carbonated drinks. I can understand people drinking the carbonated drinks in the countries where there are less local fruits but in Sri Lanka, you get seasonal fruits from different terrains of the island no matter what season. Unfortunately, soda makers have been able to advertise in a way that the youth indulge in these unhealthy carbonated drinks.

On the way through the Galle Road we spent some time at a naval monument at Tangalle. I first thought this was a monument to remember the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami but it was not to be.

Meer Ali was excited when I took him to Matara beach as he was a fan of the legendary cricketer, Sanath Jayasuriya who was christened as “Matara Mauler” by the sportswriters and cricket commentators due to his hard-hitting batting style which made Sri Lankan team a formidable unit that could beat any cricketing nation during his time. Once, former Pakistani cricketer and the present cricket commentator, Rameez Raja used the word “carnage” to describe Jayasuriya’s batting. Whenever he went for a big score, it was just a ritual for the rest of the match to end up Sri Lanka winning. Jayasuriya was a product of Matara. Meer paused for a few shots on my motorbike on Matara beach.

When I passed Weligama, it was impossible not to remember Rekha, a pretty Nightingale whom I worked with at Asiri Hospital, Colombo 05. Hers was the sweetest smile I had ever seen. I could remember that she was from Weligama, this small coastal town but didn’t know any contact details of her. Besides, I had last seen her some 20 years ago.

It was around six in the evening when we passed Weligama and riding at night through Gall Road was not fun as most Sri Lankan motorists don’t use the dipped beam or the traffic beam of their head lamps and in an inconsiderate manner, almost always use their country beams to dazzle any oncoming fellow motorist. They simply drive with headlights on and you get mad when you get those high flash lights directly on your face. This is not considered as a serious traffic offence by the police, too. I get very irritated when the people do so but it will take eons for the Lankan motorists to learn this and become cultured motorists.

We stopped several times on the way to have tea, but my favorite was coffee. Coffee is my cup of tea 😊.

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Riding some monotonous 150 km bracing myriads of non-dipping main beams of oncoming traffic, along the island’s south western coast we reached the metropolitan Mount Lavinia and were put up in a small hotel for the night. Usually riding such a long distance on a motorbike could be strenuous to a rider but when you have a companion like Meer who was a rare sort of guys when compared with most Indians, you don’t feel the discomfort of the journey. We both sang Hindi songs on the way and he was surprised that I knew more Hindi songs than he did. He said he never felt that he is away from India with Hindi songs being played in almost all small towns we passed. I find both Hindi and Spanish languages are very lyrical and this is why I love them. I had a chance of securing a lucrative job opportunity in Japan if I were ready to learn Japanese but if I will have to learn a second language other than English, it would be Hindi or Spanish. Not Japanese and not French at all even if I am to contest for the post of General Secretary of the United Nations!

Day 3 – From Nuwara Eliya to Tissamaharama via Bandarawela, Ella, Wellawaya and Thanamalvila (143 km)


Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka

On the third day of our motorcycle journey, August 10, 2016, Meer Ali and I left the guest house in Nuwara Eliya around 9.00 am. The Lake Gregory nestled among the misty hills was beckoning and we rode towards the Lake Gregory, enjoyed the beautiful scenery and the cool breeze for a while, before getting back on the road once again towards the Nuwara Eliya City. Lake Gregory, which is situated at an elevation of 1,874 meters created by the British who ruled the island for some 150 years from 1815 till 1948 and named it after one of the British Governors in Colombo. The English liked Nuwara Eliya because of its temperate climate. In fact, Nuwara Eliya is also known as “Little England” to date due to its colder climate, British style architecture and a host of other similarities. For some time, we did not feel like leaving such a beautiful garden city like Nuwara Eliya, probably the most beautiful in the whole country. But we had a mission to complete and continued with our motorcycle journey once again.

If you want to read more on Nuwara Eliya, please read the passages below courtesy of some other sources.

“The city of Nuwara Eliya ( City of Light) was founded by the Englishman  Samuel Baker, the discoverer of Lake Albert and the explorer of the Nile in 1846. Nuwara Eliya’s climate lent itself to becoming the prime sanctuary of the British civil servants and coffee, tea & rubber planters in Ceylon (or present-day Sri Lanka.) Nuwara Eliya, is also known as Little England, was a hill country retreat where the British colonialists could immerse in their pastimes such as fox hunting, deer hunting, elephant hunting, polo, golf and cricket.

Although the town was founded in the 19th century by the British, the district is today visited by native travelers, especially during April, the season of flowers, pony races, go cart races and auto rally.

Many of the buildings retain features from the colonial period such as the Queen’s CottageGeneral’s HouseGrand HotelHill ClubSt Andrew’s Hotel and Town Post Office. New hotels are often built and furnished in the colonial style. Visitors the city can wallow in its nostalgia of bygone days by visiting the landmark buildings. Many private homes maintain their old English-style lawns and gardens. 

Due to its highland location, Nuwara Eliya has a subtropical highland climate  having no pronounced dry season, a monsoon-like cloudy season and with a mean annual temperature of 16 °C (61 °F).

In the winter months, there can be frost at night, but it warms up rapidly during the day because of the high sun angle.

The town’s attractions include a golf course, trout streams, Victoria Park, and boating or fishing on Lake Gregory. Victoria Park is an attractive and well-used oasis. It is popular with birdwatchers at quieter times because of the good opportunities for seeing species, particularly the Indian blue robinpied thrush or scaly thrush lurking in the denser undergrowth. The Kashmir flycatcher is another attractive bird species in the park.

Galway’s Land Bird Sanctuary, close to Lake Gregory, is an area of montane forest a few kilometers east of the town. Covering an area of 0.6 km, it is home to many bird and mammal species endemic to Sri Lanka, including wild boar and barking deer.”

 Nuwara Eliya City, Sri Lanka

Nuwara Eliya City, Sri Lanka

Our next stop was at the spectacular Post Office building in the city which is located in the center of Nuwara Eliya town and is one of the oldest post offices in Sri Lanka. The Tudor-style two-storey red-brick building with a clock spire, was constructed in 1894 by the British. We took pictures of this Post Office. I am certain this may be a strong contender to be one of the world’s ten most beautiful post office buildings. There were some rumors a few months back, that this 124-year-old post office was to be sold to an Indian businessman who intended to convert it into an Indian restaurant. The proposal was met with angry protests by the city folks and the workers of the postal department in Nuwara Eliya. Hence, the plan was temporarily withheld. Read more here: https://www.pressreader.com/sri-lanka/sunday-times-sri-lanka/20170604/281668254940656.

Post Office, Nuwara Eliya

Post Office, Nuwara Eliya

Farms close to Nuwara Eliya town.

Farms close to Nuwara Eliya town.

Our next stop was at the famous Seetha Amman Temple in Sita Eliya (Sita is written as Seetha by being more faithful to the way it is pronounced by Sri Lankans.) Legend says that this is the area where the Indian princess Sita was said to have been held in captivity by the all-powerful Sri Lankan king Ravana, to hurt the pride of the Indian prince Rama who was the husband of Sita.

(I will publish a separate post on the Ramayana epic once I finish writing about our own epic 5-day motorcycle journey.)

History and legends apart, the temple (also called kovil by Hindus) is a beautiful structure and both Meer and I took a lot of pictures of it from various angles. It is well-maintained and clean.

Seetha Amman Temple, Seetha Eliya, Nuwara Eliya

Seetha Amman Temple, Seetha Eliya, Nuwara Eliya

We stopped by famous Hakgala Botanical Gardens one of the oldest botanical gardens in this part of the world around 1.00 pm. (The garden was established in 1861, under George Henry Kendrick Thwaites as an experimental cultivation of Cinchona, a commercial crop thriving at the time. Once the Tea replaced the Cinchona, it was turned into an experimental Tea cultivation. In 1884 it transformed to a garden. Since then many sub-tropical and some temperate plants planted in the gardens. – Wikipedia)

It was a mesmerizing place full of various flowers and huge fern trees (which might have left unharmed since the Jurassic Age I guess.) When you see these treasures of nature, it is apparent that you feel antagonized about the British colonialists, the only Western power who were able to capture the whole of Sri Lanka (then Ceylon) as to what damage they have inflicted to this otherwise evergreen rain-forest in the Central Hills of Sri Lanka by introducing coffee, cinchona, then tea and various non-endemic flora for mere industrial and commercial purposes by uprooting and decimating (in my words, by raping, savaging and ravaging) the island’s virgin rain forest canopy, especially right throughout these hilly terrains, eventually causing in the process long periods of droughts in other parts of the country, as can be seen today. Since I am not an ecologist or an environmentalist but a naturalist, I had do better wind up the commentary on how the English planters completely bared vast swaths of island’s pristine primordial forestation.)

Huge fern trees at Hakgala botanical Garden, Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka

Huge fern trees at Hakgala botanical Garden, Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka

A rose bush in Hakgala Botanical Garden

A rose bush in Hakgala Botanical Garden

Meer Ali in a place between Nuwara Eliya and Bandarawela.

Meer Ali in a place between Nuwara Eliya and Bandarawela.

Meer Ali enjoying "Ceylon Tea) in a place between Nuwara Eliya and Bandarawela.

Meer Ali enjoying “Ceylon Tea) in a place between Nuwara Eliya and Bandarawela.

Nanda Wanninayaka in a tea garden.

Nanda Wanninayaka in a tea garden.

Nanda Wanninayaka and Meer Ali

Nanda Wanninayaka and Meer Ali

Next, we proceeded to Bandarawela, one of the best honeymoon locations (which I too had the pleasure of enjoying in 2006) in the world. As we crossed the Nuwara Eliya district boundary, the landscape began to change. The closer the Badulla district, the more you get to see vegetable farms than tea estates. Still, it is a beautiful sight to behold and I wonder if anyone would complain about the change.

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Rawana Falls, Sri Lanka

We reached Ravana Falls passing beautiful mountain ranges via Bandarawela and Ella, one of the most visited places by the foreign tourists in the Hill Country of Sri Lanka. Once you pass Ella and reach Ravana Falls, you begin to feel that the climate has had a drastic change. Till Ella, misty mountains with with intermittent showers, drizzles, rainbows, endless tea gardens, beautiful waterfalls, and so forth kept soothing our souls and bodies, but the moment you go down to Ravana Falls, you are in the Dry Zone. The precipice is so steep and one cannot understand how a whole climate system changes within such a small distance. I doubt whether similar places are elsewhere in Sri Lanka to see such a sudden and vast climatic difference within such a short time and distance.

Meer and I spent quite a time at Ravana Falls and here a crafty vender of corn cobs locked horns with me as I bought corn cobs for Meer also for the Sri Lankan rates. He immediately recognized Meer was not Sri Lankan and has to pay more for corn cobs. The funny part of this is that not a single traffic policeman could recognize Meer was not a Sri Lankan during almost 1000 km motorcycle journey to issue him a ticket for not having an international driving license authenticated or attested by the Department of Motor Traffic in Sri Lanka😊. Meer and I took turns in riding the bike.

We reached Tissamaharama by late night on the bike by passing Wellawaya and Thanamalvila. Our plan for the next day was to ride to Yala National Park.

*Thanks Mr. Lionel Balasuriya (USA) and Mr. Sunil Rutnayake (Sri Lanka) for giving me a hand with providing more facts and editing the post.

 

Day 2 – From Naula to Nuwara Eliya via Katugasthota bypassing Kandy (129 km)


Meer Ali and Nanda Wanninayaka in Nuwara Eliya

Meer Ali and Nanda Wanninayaka in Nuwara Eliya

We started from Naula and bypassed Kandy as it is an utter waist of time to go through the city. So, we went via Katugasthota to Peradeniya, then to Nuwara Eliya via Gampola. The road was amazing and the vegetation was so green and beautiful. It was colder when we reached Nuwara Eliya, the paradise in Sri Lanka due to lapse rate. We spent the night at a small guest house opposite famous Lake Gregory in Nuwara Eliya. We also walked around the lake at night which was a beautiful experience.

At Gampola town

At Gampola town

Nanda-Wanninayaka in Nuwara Eliya

Nanda-Wanninayaka in Nuwara Eliya

Nuwara Eliya

Nuwara Eliya

A waterfall in Nuwara Eliya

A waterfall in Nuwara Eliya

Meer Ali from India with the waterfall in the background

Meer Ali from India with the waterfall in the background

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Nanda Wanninayaka with the waterfall in the background

Meer Ali at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Meer Ali at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Nanda Wanninayaka at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Nanda Wanninayaka at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Night at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Night at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Day 1 – From Mahawilachchiya to Naula via Dambulla (117.1 km – August 7, 2016)


Nanda and Meer at Basawakkulama Reservoir, Anuradhapura

Nanda and Meer at Basawakkulama Reservoir, Anuradhapura

Day one was not that difficult as we mostly rode on flat terrain. Both Meet and I took turns while riding. Meer did not have an Indian bike license with a Sri Lankan attestation by the Department of Motor Traffic in Sri Lanka but the police never stopped the bike while he was riding. They thought Meer was Sri Lankan.

We met a girl in Dambulla who could do nice painting and we took a few pictures of her paintings too. I thought I would write about her painting in my blog but she did not want it. We stopped at a guest house in Naula for the first night.